It was 2 days ahead the new years eve, I decided to execute my month’s old plan to visit Gosainkunda, a lake at fairly remote part of Rasuwa. From the very beginning, I was planning to start my trek from Sundarijal, the opposite direction of what most people do the trek. It was full of the adventure and fun. Here goes my experience as I can express it off.
I faked my family as I don’t want them too be worried and mostly I don’t have enough courage to say that I am going alone But when I told my friends that I am going alone, some of them didn’t trust me till the last minute I walk out alone and some of them just didn’t want me to go. Anyway, I decided and I left catching a public bus from Buddha to Sundarijal. Being the new years eve, there were few groups of hikers going to Chisapani, from sundarijal. Few among them were headed farther up to Langtang.
It was almost midday when I reached the last tea-house, on top of the Mulkharka Village. After having lunch, I started to walk on the Sundari Jal national park. It is a nice path for hiking, the forest and the condition of the trail is perfect for a short hike. And at the end of the day, you will find hotels to stay, along with camping spots on the location called Chisapani. My case was different, I have to keep moving as I am planning to cover as far as I can and it was just 3:00 pm when I reached Chisapani. My next spot was pati bhanjhang. I trail was perfect except for a spot where I doubted it and followed a newly created motorway. After asking to a local, I straightened myself towards Patebhanjhang. But when I reached there, I just learned I can reach the next stop for that night. After a steep climb, I managed to reach Chipling. The hotel owner lets me camp on her ground for free. Besides nice food, I managed to charge my electronics. My back and shoulder already started to pain, which I was hoping to relief by the next morning. I know my backpack was big due to the sleeping bag and tents, but I wanted to do a trial run with almost all the stuff I need.
The next morning, headed for Gulbhanjhang, where I am supposed to have lunch. But I pushed myself and reached Kutumsang. Met two groups returning from Gosainkunda, talked with them and my first question used to be “Have you guys faced anything close to altitude sickness?” :). As altitude sickness was my fear number 1. I wanted to be aware and take action against is as soon as I can because I know I can do nothing when the oxygen is not enough for me. And on the way, I was doing a breathing exercise to make my lunge tolerant enough. 🙂 I don’t know whether this has any significance but it really helped my inner self. 🙂
Magin goath was my next stop on mind where I could probably rest for that night. Also met a boy from that hotel who was carrying loads from the nearest road head(Kutumsang). He was also against me going as next stop Thadepati, is not that easy to reach. Anyway, I had noodle soup and disobeying yet another friend, I proceed. I know there were no other options than walking next 2.5 hrs to reach Thadepati, where there are 2 motels and the trail started to rise.
At the meantime, it started to rain in the middle of the jungle. I was kind of afraid that whether I could be able to reach there. It was already evening and I was feeling tired. Pushing myself up, I saw some people on the far ahead which gave me hope and courage to push myself further. They were a Belarussian couple along with a 4 years old kid. They were camping and hiking along with this little kid and she looks excited and energetic too. I just fall in love with the family. We walked for the next half an hour together to reach motels at Thadepati. At the end It was already dark and the heavy hailstone poured down there. From internally I was expecting it to snow.
Get a room and nice food, during dinner we chatted with that humorous kid on the hotel.
Next morning when I wake up I was snow in my room right through my window. I was excited and made myself prepared to play in the snow. It was my first time on this much fresh snow. Along with an American couple and that humorous kid from hotel, we played a lot on the snow. Making snowball, snowman and hitting each other with snow. It was too much fun.
But I have to keep moving. After consulting with the hotel owner and the other team, I decided to move. I was the first one to walk after the snow. I enjoyed too much-making track on the snow-filled path. That sound of fresh snow was so amazing. I enjoyed much. After 2-3 hrs of the snowy trail, met few trekkers on the way. My question was still the same “Did you guys faced any altitude problem?” but with the added on “Do you think I can cross the pass today?”. And I started getting a mixed response, which is not enough to stop me. Gopte was my breakfast point and Phedi becomes lunch spot. A girl at Ghopte already informed me that 2 Nepalies have decided not to attempt the pass and return back. She was looking at shoes, normal sports shoes, which were made waterproof by using a polythene bag outside of my socks. I was not prepared for that much snow and that what the best shoes I have. 🙂
After having lunch at Phedi, the final push was required. It was 4 hrs of the trail ahead which was covered in snow, just like the way I was walking that morning. I had already started to feel pain on my right knee and that stick was helping me a lot to overcome this and to make myself stable on the slippery trail. Almost on the half-way to the top, met a group of trekker returning back doing that pass. It gave me hope but the weather already started to get worst. It started to get foggy and I felt light snowfall too. And in addition the trekker suggests me to return back as If the snowfall gets heavy, the trail mark made by the boots of the previous trekker will be erased and hence it will be highly likely to get lost.
As I climbed, the pain keeps on growing and I had no option than continuing. There was no shelter, no one to ask and snow everywhere. At Phedi high camp, there was an abandoned teahouse, I considered this as possible shelter many times, even after I left it and moved forward. Even after half an hour of climbing, I looked back wanted to go to shelter there. But the other side of me urged me to keep moving forward. Especially those false peaks gave me lots of hope. I know Kunda is not far apart from the peak and It was all downhill from there. After a few false peaks and due to the hope they gave, I finally reached the real peak. Surya Kunda was it, where I finally felt like I conquered that pass. It was so cold due to the snow and the wind blow.
Even though the trail goes down thereafter, it was not easy due to my feet and due to the snow accumulated on the trail. I have to find the trail following the boot marks and sometimes I used to reach a dead-end as they had taken the wrong move and decided to return back. 🙂
On the way, there were few frozen Kunda(lake). After 20 something minutes of walking, finally got the view of Gosainkunda and there were few hotels on the other side of the lake. The leg was hurting so much, I was totally depended on my left leg and a stick I was carrying.
After reaching Kunda, I found a lodge and slept early as I was not able to do anything further.
Next morning, my leg was still the same. But still, I decided to walk around the lake. The sky was clear and the sun was upon the sky, so the views around were pretty clear and mesmerizing. It was my very first date with snow and it was going great. She is surrounding me from everywhere. There was no land without snow.
Completed the lake encircling and I moved downward towards Lauribina. As this section of trail is visited mostly and due to which the snow from last night became so slippery. I had to step carefully on the fresh snow otherwise there is the possibility of ending down on the stream.
The trail used to look so short but it used to take a long time for me due to slippery snow and the leg. When I was at buddha mandir, there was hard wind blowing. It was so strong that I have to use a stick to help myself stand. After having lunch at Lauri Bina, I reached down up to Cholang pati. It was midday but still, I decided to camp and rest for the day.
On the fifth day, I know it was going to be the easy route, as I was pretty close to Dhunche, from where I could find a bus to Kathmandu. The trail was amazing, surrounded by the various colored rhododendron. And the trail was so much wide. Till I reached Dhunche, I was convinced that If anyone wants a short trip to the amazing location, this section is too good.
